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Posted 20 hours ago

Astromania 1.25" Astrophotography Flip Mirror - The flip Mirror for Precise Focusing

£94.995£189.99Clearance
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ZTS2023
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For the adaptation to the telescope, you can use Baader SC / HD Ultra Short T-Adaptor, 9mm optical length # 2958500B, yes. By any chance, do you know the distance between the meade 6.3, x0.5 reducer, ln300 sensor? If it's too much trouble, don't worry about it, but I figured I would ask. I plan on eventually upgrading my AVS DSO ccd to a lodestar x2c like you as well. So if anyone can help me and suggest way's for the flip mirror to fit on my scope, If would of great help. The field stop of the eyepiece and the camera sensor should each be in the same distance from the Flip Mirror. Dark frames are very easy to take by just flipping the mirror to the eyepiece. In fact, I usually take darks, while doing the fine centering of the object in the ep.

The Baader helical focusing eyepiece holder is a luxury. The ep holder that came with the flip mirror could be used just as well but I had the Baader part, so I used it. The width of the spacer may need to be changed if a rather different overall reduction rate is desired. Of course, this is not the only option to come into focus with the eyepiece. You might also simply not slide the eyepiece all the way down into the eyepiece clamp. Of course, this does not look so elegant and, depending on the distance, may even require the Am Anfang (aus der Ferne) machte ich mir Gedanken über die Orthogonalität des Klappspiegels, dessen Fassung, Drehlagerung und vorallem über die Verwindungssteifheit des gesamten Gehäuses. Denn daran sollten eine SBIG STF-8300M, eine kleine Guidingcam Alccd-QHY 5III 174 und ein Okular platz finden. Ein beachtliches Gewicht für so einen kleinen "Würfel". Meine Bedenken haben sich nach einigen Nächten praktischen Einsatzes in Luft aufgelöst. Bis auf eine kleine Sache, was die Adaption des Off Axis Guider für Baader FlipMirror II (BFM-OAG) In the second picture we have a Micro Four Thirds camera, which is connected via the Baader T-Ring Micro Four Thirds (m4/3) to T-2 + 19mm expansion (#2408330 , € 31,-)optionally, instead of T-2-extensions: DT-4 Baader 1¼" - 31.8mm nosepiece extension with 1¼" filter thread on both sides (T-2 part #05) (#1905130 , € 19,-) This gives you a working distance of 31,5mm for the camera and 29-35mm for the eyepiece. With this setup, you should reach focus with most eyepieces - usually, the field stop is at the transition between eyepiece body and 1.25" nosepiece, but it can vary. (We all know, that eyepieces are not parfocal...)

optional Reducing piece S52 / M48 # 2958552 (zero length) (for a wider clear aperture; not necessary, if you use T-2 on the telescope side) Adjusting left/right alignment took more working out – it’s not described in the Orion manual at all, but there were some references to the Orion mirror on the web that suggested it was possible. On my model if I centered a star on the camera, it was left of center by a bit in the eyepiece, so I was determined to work out how to do this.

Flipping Mirror with handy Tray

Finally, I’m going to cover what might be considered the most important part – the mirror itself. I must admit to being no real expert in how to judge a flat mirror, but it seems to have an even surface with no blemishes. Star images both in and out of focus were as I’d expect and didn’t show any unusual problems. I am not sure, if the 120mm achro could be focal reduced down to f/2.5-f/3. Chromatic aberration of refracting optics is getting worse with more bending of the light. And f/2.5-f/3 requires a LOT of bending. Also, you needed to cut a LOT from all tubes. A 120mm f/2.5 refractor is about 1 foot long. As you can see you the mirror comes in a shaped foam insert with a 1.25″ nosepiece on the front, a 1.25″ eyepiece holder on top and a T thread port to the rear. The insert is glued into the box, but could be prised out to go into an eyepiece case. You also get an alan key for making adjustments if needed, but no instructions. I could not add pictures to the intended reply. So I created a new review with a 5 star rating due to the applied improvement.

Adjustable T-2 thread on top for eyepiece clamps, video modules (up to 32 mm image circle) or even a binoviewer Those eyepieces where the field stop is closer to the eye or exactly at the transition from the eyepiece body to the 1.25" nose-piece can be inserted into the eyepiece clamp up to the stop. A guiding camera with a longer nosepiece: T-2-extensions on eyepiece and camera provide the same focus position for everything. We also measure the Power with our systems which is essentially the error from the reference sphere to the test optic. The reference sphere we use on our system is a very high quality sphere so the closer to zero the Power, the less error between the 2 elements thus ensuring a higher quality optical surface.https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/m48-adapter-system/2%22a--m48i-zero-length-reducing-piece-(no-optical-height).html hex keys (2.5 / 2.0 / 1.5 / 1.3 mm). The 2.0 mm wrench has a ball head to reach screws even when accessories are mounted by holding the wrench at an angle. is 59mm long, the camera 55mm – the total length was too short to get into focus at this special telescope in all configurations. Therefore a Baader T-2 / 40 mm Extension Tube (T-2 part #25B) (#1508153 , € 27,-)

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